You can make a square cut on the longer pieces with your multimaster works well and put a slight back angle on the cut.
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To cut curves greater than 5 8 radius or when cut quality matters more than speed use a 1 4 6 tpi standard or skip tooth blade.
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The number of teeth on the blade helps determine the speed type and finish of the cut.
Gullets between the teeth remove chips from the work pieces.
For general ripping and crosscutting use a 1 2 3 tpi.
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There are tradeoffs you pay for that smoother cut on a fine tooth blade.
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Expansion slots cut into the rim help prevent the blade from warping as it expands and contracts during use.
For cutting tight curves less than 5 8 radius and delicate thin materials use a 1 8 or 3 16 10 14 tpi standard tooth blade.
Blades with fewer teeth cut faster but those with more teeth create a finer finish.
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A steady hand keeps it from hitting the adjacent board and running a vacuum can keep it from burning the blades up as quickly that old oak can be hard.
I intend to use unfinished red oak then re sand and finish the entire floor as a whole.
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Because the cuts are naturally slower and less aggressive there is a greater likelihood that the wood will be burned due to friction as the blade feeds through the workpiece.
And because the gullets between teeth are very small and don t clear out the sawdust as quickly there is a greater likelihood of binding when.